Edible flower seeds: sowing, harvesting, and use in cooking

In this article 7

Edible flowers have long been confined to plate decoration. That is a shame, because several of them have a distinct flavor — peppery, briny, aniseed — that adds something to a dish, not just color.

They have another benefit in the vegetable garden: almost all of them are excellent plants for beneficial insects and pollinators. So we grow them twice — for the plate and for the balance of the garden.

One absolute rule before you begin: consume only flowers you are certain you have correctly identified, grown yourself or sourced from a producer, and never those from a roadside, an ornamental garden center, or a bouquet — they may have been treated. If you are unsure about a species, do not consume it.

The reliable favorites, by flavor

The peppery ones

Nasturtium (Tropaeolum) — the most intense. The flowers have a distinctly peppery flavor, similar to watercress, due to sulfur compounds. Everything is edible: flowers, young leaves, and especially the flower buds and green seeds, which can be preserved in vinegar and make an excellent substitute for capers. This is the plant’s most interesting use, and the least well known.

The mild and briny ones

Borage (Borago officinalis) — small blue stars with a fresh, slightly briny flavor reminiscent of cucumber or oyster. Superb on fresh cheese, in cucumber salad, or frozen into ice cubes. Remove the hairy calyx, which is prickly.

Mallow (Malva sylvestris) — slightly mucilaginous texture, very mild flavor. The flowers add a lovely color to infusions.

The bitter and colorful ones

Marigold (Calendula officinalis) — nicknamed the “poor man’s saffron”: its petals give rice and broths a deep yellow color. Slightly bitter, resinous flavor. Use only the petals; the center is too bitter.

Poppy — very delicate petals, subtle flavor, sublime in syrup or jelly.

Cornflower — very delicate flavor, but the blue holds remarkably well when dried: this is the flower to keep for dry blends and infusions.

Herbs in bloom

We forget about them, yet they are often the best: chives (purple pom-poms with a mild garlic flavor), thyme, oregano, summer savory, basil. They concentrate the plant’s fragrance in a finer form. Letting a clump of chives flower is a cost-free gesture with two benefits — for the plate and for pollinators.

Other common species

Cosmos — mild flavor, highly decorative, and a very long flowering period.
Columbine — the spurs contain sweet nectar; consume in moderation, as a decoration.
Marsh mallow — flowers and young leaves, very mild.
Zucchini — the male flowers, borne on thin stems without a small fruit at the base, can be picked without reducing the harvest. Stuffed or made into fritters.

What you absolutely must not eat

The list matters just as much as the previous one. Several very common garden flowers are toxic, sometimes severely so:

Lily of the valley, foxglove, monkshood, autumn crocus, yew — severe cardiac or neurological toxicity.
Oleander, datura, belladonna, nightshade — dangerous even in small quantities.
Buttercup, anemone, spurge, wisteria, hydrangea, rhododendron, daffodil, tulip, sweet pea — all inedible.

Three general precautions, even for edible species:

Introduce them gradually — allergic reactions are possible, particularly in people sensitive to Asteraceae (marigold, cosmos, chamomile).
Remove the bitter parts — calyxes, pistils, stamens, and the white parts at the base of the petals often concentrate the bitterness.
Keep the quantities reasonable — these are condiments, not vegetables.

Sowing them

Most are remarkably easy to grow — a good way to get started with children.

Nasturtium — large seed, direct sowing in place at a depth of 2 cm, after the frosts. It likes poor soil: too much nitrogen produces leaves and few flowers.
Borage — direct sowing from March to June. It self-seeds afterward, sometimes abundantly: give it a place where it can remain.
Marigold — direct sowing from March to May, very hardy. It also self-seeds from one year to the next.
Poppy and cornflower — broadcast sow in autumn or very early spring, barely covered: these seeds need light to germinate.
Cosmos — sow in pots in April or directly in the ground in May.
Mallow, columbine, marshmallow — perennials, sow in spring or late summer; they often flower from the second year onward.

What they all have in common: no fertilizer, and above all, no treatments. These flowers are intended to be eaten.

Harvesting at the right time

In the morning, after the dew has evaporated — this is when the aromas are most concentrated and the petals are firmest.
Freshly opened flowers, never wilted or fully open for several days.
Shake them gently rather than rinsing — the petals do not tolerate water well. Check that no insects remain.
Do not wash them unless absolutely necessary; if you must, give them a very brief bath, then dry them on paper.
Use the same day — they do not keep well. If necessary, refrigerate for two days in an airtight container with a damp paper towel.

Storage

Drying — spread flat, in the shade, in a well-ventilated place. Works well for cornflowers, marigolds, mallows, and chamomile; poorly for borage and nasturtiums.
Edible flower ice cubes — one flower per compartment, using boiled and cooled water for a transparent ice cube.
Flavored vinegar and oil — nasturtium, chives, flowering basil.
Pickled nasturtium buds — pick them while green, brine overnight, then cover with hot vinegar. Ready in three weeks.

Using them in cooking

Salads — add at the last moment, after dressing: vinegar wilts the petals within minutes.
Fresh butters and cheeses — incorporate marigold or nasturtium petals the day before, allowing time for the flavors to infuse.
Syrops and jellies — poppy, mallow, violet. Cold infusion preserves the color better than a decoction.
Fritters — zucchini, acacia, and elderflower blossoms.
Infusions — chamomile, mallow, cornflower, calendula.
Crystallization — beaten egg white followed by fine sugar, for pastry-making. Keeps for several weeks.

A cooking principle: flowers add fragrance and texture, rarely substance. Use them like a fresh herb, not like a vegetable, and avoid mixing more than two or three species in the same dish — the flavors cancel each other out.

Frequently asked questions

Are all the flowers of my vegetables edible?

Many are edible — zucchini, pea, bean, fennel, arugula, mustard, and chives. But not all: avoid the flowers of potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants, and peppers, which belong to the nightshade family and contain alkaloids.

Can you eat flowers bought at a garden center?

No. Ornamental plants receive treatments not intended for food use, and residues persist in the tissues for a long time. Sow your own: it's simple and the only guarantee.

Do edible flowers have nutritional value?

Minimal, given the quantities consumed. Their appeal is gustatory and visual — don't look for a health benefit where there isn't one.

How many plants should you plan for?

Three to five nasturtiums, two or three borage plants, and around ten calendula plants are more than enough for family use — and also provide all the benefits described in Pairing flowers with the vegetable garden.

Can you harvest their seeds?

Yes, and it's particularly easy: nasturtiums, calendula, borage, cornflower, and poppy produce abundant, clearly visible seeds. See How to save your seeds.

Key points

Start with the trio of nasturtiums, borage, and calendula: easy to grow, productive, with truly distinct flavors, and they self-seed. Pick them in the morning, serve them the same day, and don't forget nasturtium buds in vinegar — it's probably the best surprise on this list.

To take it further

Discover our flower seeds and our bee-friendly plants — all open-pollinated and untreated.