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There comes a point, after a few seasons of gardening, when tomatoes and zucchini are no longer enough. You want to grow something you have never seen growing, harvest a fruit whose name no one knows, and try a species that has no business growing at our latitudes.
It is a legitimate pleasure — and also how we improve: an unusual species forces you to understand its requirements instead of following a routine. Here is a selection organized by difficulty level, with what you need to know before getting started.
Level 1 — unusual but easy
They grow like ordinary vegetables and produce in their first year. Start with these.
- Physalis (Physalis peruviana) — the Cape gooseberry. Small orange berries inside a papery husk, with a tangy flavor somewhere between tomato and pineapple. Grows like a tomato and is remarkably productive. The fruits keep for weeks in their husks.
- Green Tomatillo and purple tomatillo (Physalis ixocarpa) — the foundation of Mexican green sauce. Important point: you need at least two plants, as the species is self-sterile. A solitary plant flowers abundantly but produces nothing — the classic disappointment.
- Loofah Gourd (Luffa aegyptiaca) — the only plant on this list grown for an object rather than food. Harvested young, it can be eaten like a zucchini; left to mature, then dried and peeled, it produces a natural plant-based sponge. Long growing cycle: early sowing under cover is essential.
- Chinese Lantern (Physalis alkekengi) — an ornamental perennial with bright orange calyces, beautiful in dried bouquets. Warning: unlike its cousins, its fruits are not edible. It also spreads by runners, so keep it contained.
- Banana Legs Tomato — elongated yellow fruits with firm, low-juice flesh. Excellent dried or in sauce, and fascinating to watch grow.

Level 2 — warmth and a little know-how are required
- Aji Charapita chili pepper (Capsicum chinense) — tiny yellow berries, highly aromatic, reputed to be among the most expensive peppers in the world. Capsicum chinense has slow and erratic germination: allow two to four weeks at a constant 25–28 °C. Sowing at 20 °C often fails. Long growing cycle; sow in February.
- Stevia (Stevia rebaudiana) — leaves with intense sweetening power, without sugar. Fine seeds to sow on the surface, without covering them, at 25 °C. Naturally low germination rate: sow generously. Tender, and must be brought indoors in winter.
- Indian ginseng (Withania somnifera) — shrub from warm regions, grown in pots in our latitudes. Red berries in a papery calyx, with grayish foliage.
- Holy basil Tulsi — flavor between clove and pepper, very different from ordinary basil. Hardier than ordinary basil, and perennial in a conservatory.
- Thornless caper bush (Capparis spinosa) — for dry, rocky, south-facing ground. Difficult germination that benefits from cold stratification, followed by slow growth. Once established, it lives for decades.

Level 3 — the real challenges
These are worth trying for the pleasure of the experience, not for the harvest. Accept failure as a normal possibility.
- Sacred lotus (Nelumbo nucifera) — undoubtedly the most spectacular germination in the catalog. The seed coat is so hard that the seed remains viable for centuries: it must be scarified — file one side until you can see the white, without damaging the embryo — then immerse it in water at 25–30 °C, changing the water daily. Germination can be seen with the naked eye within a few days. Grow in a pond afterward.
- Blue jacaranda (Jacaranda mimosifolia) — mauve-flowering tree, not hardy in most of our climates. Grown in a pot as an ornamental plant, it can also be trained as a bonsai. Soak for 24 hours before sowing; keep at a constant warm temperature.
- Neem (Azadirachta indica) — tropical tree. Its seeds have a very short shelf life: sow them as soon as you receive them, without delay. Grow indoors in a warm, bright location.
- Bay laurel — not exotic, but remarkably slow: germination takes several months and is irregular. It is more an exercise in patience than technique.
The three techniques that solve most cases
Rare species rarely fail because of a lack of care, but because their specific requirements are overlooked. Three steps cover most situations.
Scarification
For seeds with impermeable seed coats — lotus, caper bush, tropical legumes. File or nick the coat on one side, opposite the hilum, until the pale tissue becomes visible. Or soak for 24 hours in lukewarm water. Without this, water never gets in and the seed remains dormant for years.
Bottom heat
This is the No. 1 limiting factor for tropical species. A heating mat, the top of a refrigerator, or a mini greenhouse changes everything: the difference between 20 and 26 °C can raise the germination rate of Capsicum chinense from 10% to 80%.
Light during germination
Many very fine seeds — stevia, physalis, herbs — need light to germinate. Do not bury them: simply press them against a moist growing medium. See How to sow your seeds.
For species with long or uncertain germination, first test them on cotton wool: place ten seeds in a container, and within two weeks you'll know whether the batch is viable before using an entire seed tray.
How to approach an unknown species
- Find out where it comes from geographically. This is the most useful information of all: it tells you the temperature, light, humidity, and sowing season. An Andean plant, a tropical Asian plant, and a Mediterranean plant cannot be grown in the same way.
- Look at the seed size. Large and hard → probably scarification and deep sowing. Fine → surface sowing; light is necessary.
- Sow in batches. Never sow the whole packet at once: three batches two weeks apart, varying one parameter. You learn instead of losing everything.
- Write down what you do. Date, temperature, treatment, result. Without this, a success cannot be replicated.
- Don't give up too soon. Some species emerge after several months, or even in their second spring.
A word about expectations
Let's be frank: some of these plants will not produce a usable harvest in our climate. A jacaranda will probably never flower in a pot in Auvergne, while a neem will remain a houseplant.
It is not a failure if the objective is clearly defined. We grow these species to see how they grow, to understand germination, and to show children that a lotus can emerge from a seed as hard as a stone. Level 1 and 2 species, on the other hand, really do produce — and physalis or tomatillo can become regular crops in your vegetable garden.
The real benefit lies elsewhere: by growing an unusual species, you learn to think like a plant instead of following a routine. This mindset then helps with everything else in the vegetable garden.
Frequently asked questions
Are these seeds true to type?
Yes, as with our entire catalog. Physalis and peppers are self-pollinating and reseed easily; tomatillo is self-incompatible, requiring several plants, but produces true-to-type seeds. See How to store your seeds.
Is a greenhouse necessary?
For level 1, no. For long-cycle tropical species — luffa, charapita, stevia — a greenhouse or conservatory makes a real difference, especially north of the Loire. A simple cold frame and early sowing under cover are often enough.
Why isn't my tomatillo producing anything?
Almost always because there is only one plant. The species is self-incompatible: at least two plants, grown close together, are needed for cross-pollination to occur.
How long does a rare seed remain viable?
It varies widely. Lotus seeds can remain viable for centuries, while neem seeds last only a few weeks. As a general rule, the oilier or fleshier a seed is, the less well it stores. When in doubt, sow as soon as you receive it.
Can these species be grown in an apartment?
Some, yes: stevia, holy basil, Indian ginseng, and neem. Light is much more limiting than temperature — a south-facing window or supplemental lighting is essential.
Key takeaways
Start with physalis and tomatillo — unusual, easy to grow, and productive from the first year. Save lotus and jacaranda for the pleasure of experimentation. And remember the three keys that unlock almost everything: scarify hard seeds, warm tropical species, and do not bury fine seeds.
Going further
- How to sow seeds in cotton, pots, or directly in the ground
- Cold stratification: why and how to germinate seeds
- Heirloom seeds: what are they? Why grow them?
- Growing a bonsai from a seed
Discover our new arrivals, our useful seeds, and our fruit seeds — all true to type.



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